OrcaSlicer for Qidi X-Plus 3 / X-Max 3 / Q1 Pro: Setup and Best Settings (2026)

I bought a Qidi X-Plus 3 to print PA-CF brackets after my Voron toasted its second hot end on the same job. The chamber heater was the entire point: 65°C of active heat lets nylon and CF blends actually anneal as they print, instead of warping into a banana. Most Qidi guides skip past the OrcaSlicer side, and they all get the Moonraker port wrong.

This guide is for owners (or near-owners) of the three Qidi machines that share the same toolhead philosophy and roughly the same OrcaSlicer workflow: the Q1 Pro, the X-Plus 3, and the X-Max 3. I’ll cover what’s already in OrcaSlicer for these printers, how to wire them up over Klipper and Moonraker without losing an evening, what filament settings actually work past the marketing claims, and the ugly bits nobody else mentions (chamber heater G-code mismatches, send-and-print 403 errors, the 600 mm/s number that isn’t real).

If you’re brand new to OrcaSlicer in general, bookmark our printer profiles hub and the Klipper setup walkthrough. Both come up repeatedly here because Qidi runs a Klipper fork, and the Moonraker quirks are universal.

Table of contents

• Which Qidi belongs in your shop
• Profiles already in OrcaSlicer
• First-time setup walkthrough
• Network and Moonraker (port :10088)
• Best filament settings
• Chamber heater in OrcaSlicer (the ugly part)
• Calibration sequence on Qidi
• Common pain points and fixes
• OrcaSlicer vs Qidi Studio
• FAQ

Which Qidi belongs in your shop

Qidi has thinned its lineup to a small, focused range of enclosed CoreXY Klipper machines. The three I keep recommending are the Q1 Pro, the X-Plus 3, and the X-Max 3. They share a hot end, a firmware base, and almost all of their OrcaSlicer settings. What changes between them is build volume, chamber temperature ceiling, and price.

Here’s how they actually compare in 2026:

I want to be honest about the value story, because it’s not the same on every model. The Q1 Pro at roughly $449 to $599 is the headline. It’s the cheapest CoreXY with an active heated chamber that I’d actually trust with ABS and ASA all day. The chamber tops out at 60°C, which is enough for the warpy stuff most people care about, and it makes the Q1 Pro genuinely interesting against a Bambu A1 or P1S if you’ve ever tried to print ASA in an open frame and watched the corners curl.

The X-Plus 3 sits in the middle. You’re paying $899 to $1099 for an extra 5°C in the chamber (65°C versus 60°C), a meaningfully bigger build (280 x 280 x 270 versus 245 x 245 x 240), and the same toolhead. Those 5°C don’t sound like much, but they matter when you’re printing PA-CF taller than 50 mm. I’ve had nylon parts that warped at 60°C chamber and stayed flat at 65°C. It’s a real difference.

The X-Max 3 is the same chamber temperature as the Plus 3, just bigger. 325 x 325 x 315 mm of build is enough for full-size drone frames, structural brackets, and plates that don’t need sectioning. If you’re not printing big parts, you don’t need it. If you are, nothing else in this price range does it with a 65°C active chamber.

Here’s the part Qidi won’t tell you: if you only print PLA and the occasional PETG, none of these are the right printer. A Bambu A1 mini will do everything you need for a third of the money. The X-series only earns its price tag if you’re going to actually print PA, PC, ASA, ABS, or carbon-filled blends. That’s the entire pitch. Don’t buy a chamber-heated CoreXY to print Benchies.

Material capability per machine looks like this:

Profiles already in OrcaSlicer

Good news. Upstream OrcaSlicer ships with first-party profiles for every Qidi printer in this article and most others in Qidi’s catalog. You don’t need to download anything, copy any JSONs, or maintain a fork. Qidi is an early sponsor of the OrcaSlicer project, which is why their machines get treated as a first-class vendor instead of a community add-on.

If you crack open the OrcaSlicer GitHub repo at resources/profiles/Qidi/machine/, here’s what’s there for our three machines:

X-Plus 3:

• Qidi X-Plus 3.json (parent profile)
• Qidi X-Plus 3 0.2 nozzle.json
• Qidi X-Plus 3 0.4 nozzle.json
• Qidi X-Plus 3 0.6 nozzle.json
• Qidi X-Plus 3 0.8 nozzle.json

X-Max 3:

• Qidi X-Max 3.json (parent profile)
• Qidi X-Max 3 0.2 nozzle.json
• Qidi X-Max 3 0.4 nozzle.json
• Qidi X-Max 3 0.6 nozzle.json
• Qidi X-Max 3 0.8 nozzle.json

Q1 Pro:

• Qidi Q1 Pro.json (parent profile)
• Qidi Q1 Pro 0.2 nozzle.json
• Qidi Q1 Pro 0.4 nozzle.json
• Qidi Q1 Pro 0.6 nozzle.json
• Qidi Q1 Pro 0.8 nozzle.json

The parent profile holds the motion limits, kinematics, and bed shape. The per-nozzle JSONs override line widths, max volumetric flow, and minimum layer time defaults so you don’t have to hand-tune those when you swap nozzles. If you’ve moved between hot ends or nozzle sizes on a Qidi before, this is much nicer than the manual approach.

Filament profiles live in resources/profiles/Qidi/filament/. Qidi-tuned filaments cover Generic PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG, TPU, PA-CF, PC, PAHT-CF, and PET-CF. They’re sane starting points and they assume the right chamber temps for engineering filaments, which is more than I can say for half the community profiles I’ve seen on Reddit.

Process profiles (the slicing presets, layer height plus speeds plus walls) sit in resources/profiles/Qidi/process/. The defaults track Qidi’s own tuning, so you can pick “0.20 mm Standard” for a Q1 Pro and get something close to what Qidi Studio would give you out of the box.

If you’re new to OrcaSlicer’s profile model, our printer profiles hub walks through how machine, filament, and process inheritance fits together. The short version: don’t edit the parent. Duplicate, rename, then edit your copy.

First-time setup walkthrough

Setup on a fresh OrcaSlicer install for any of these three machines takes about ten minutes if nothing fights you. Here’s the order I run through every time.

Open OrcaSlicer. If this is your first launch, the Welcome wizard will appear. If you’ve used Orca before, head to the printer dropdown in the top-left and pick “Add Printer” to get the same wizard. Expand the Qidi vendor entry. You’ll see the entire current Qidi catalog (Q1 Pro, Q2, Q2C, X-Plus 3, X-Plus 4, X-Max 3, X-Max 4, X-Smart 3, plus the older X-CF Pro and X-Plus / X-Max originals). Tick your machine, tick the nozzle sizes you actually have (0.4 mm at minimum), and confirm.

Now select your fresh printer profile in the Prepare tab dropdown. Pick a starting filament (Generic PLA or the Qidi-branded equivalent for your spool) and a process preset like 0.20 mm Standard. That’s enough to slice a model and export a 3MF you can sneakernet to the printer over USB or SD. If that’s all you need, you’re done.

Most of you want network printing, though, and that’s where Qidi gets tricky. Skip ahead to the network section below.

One thing worth knowing on the first run: Qidi’s parent profile sets the motion limits high (600 mm/s max X/Y, 20,000 mm/s² accel) because those are the printer’s hardware ceilings. The per-process profiles cap actual print speeds well below that. Don’t bump outer-wall speed past 250 mm/s expecting the printer to magically still produce visible quality. It can’t. Klipper plus an enclosed CoreXY can hit those numbers on travels, but on a curved outer wall with an 0.4 mm nozzle laying down 0.2 mm layers, your visible quality breaks somewhere between 200 and 300 mm/s no matter what the input shaper graph looks like.

Network and Moonraker (port :10088)

This is the section most Qidi guides flub. Qidi printers run a forked Klipper plus a forked Moonraker, and the Moonraker web port is 10088, not the standard 7125. If you’ve used a Voron, Sovol, or any other community Klipper machine, your finger memory will type the wrong number and OrcaSlicer will tell you “couldn’t connect” until you give up.

To find your printer’s Mainsail or Fluidd UI, point a browser at http://<printer-ip>:10088. Example: http://192.168.1.42:10088. If that loads the familiar Mainsail or Fluidd dashboard, you’re golden. If it doesn’t, your printer either isn’t on WiFi yet, or it’s on a different IP than you think.

In OrcaSlicer:

1. Open Printer Settings for your Qidi profile.
2. Find the Physical Printer section (or the printer device panel, depending on Orca version).
3. Set Host Type to Klipper (Moonraker).
4. In the Hostname/IP field, enter the IP including the port: 192.168.1.42:10088. Don’t paste just the IP. The port is part of the host string for Orca’s Moonraker uploader.
5. API key: Qidi ships Moonraker with [authorization] set to allow LAN by default, so this can usually stay blank. If you’ve enabled the API-key gate in moonraker.conf manually, copy the key from Mainsail under Settings then API Key.
6. Click Test. You want a green / connected response.

If it fails, work through this list before assuming it’s broken:

• Did you include :10088 at the end of the IP?
• Is the printer actually on the same subnet as your laptop?
• Can you load http://<ip>:10088 in a browser?
• Is your firewall blocking outbound on port 10088?
• If the API key field has anything in it, try clearing it and testing again.

For the deeper why-Klipper-works-this-way story, our Klipper setup guide for OrcaSlicer covers Moonraker, Mainsail, and Fluidd in more detail (and why Bambu’s network workflow feels easier than this).

Send-and-print: the part that’s still flaky

OrcaSlicer’s “Send and print” workflow can return HTTP 403 or trigger a sdcard_print_file error on Qidi machines. There are several open GitHub issues on this: #8788, #13056, and #13123. The file usually uploads fine; the auto-start step is where it fails.

The reliable workaround I use every day: hit “Send” in OrcaSlicer (not “Send and print”), then tab over to your browser, open Mainsail or Fluidd at :10088, and start the print from there. Same number of clicks, no failed jobs. If you really need one-click send-and-print, Qidi’s own Qidi Studio (which is itself an OrcaSlicer fork) handles the start step natively because it’s built around Qidi’s specific Moonraker config. I’ll come back to that later.

Best filament settings

The Qidi-tuned filament profiles in OrcaSlicer are sane defaults. They’ll get you usable parts on PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, and TPU without thinking. But for PA, PC, and CF blends, you’ll want to verify temps per spool because filament-to-filament variation is brutal in that category.

Here’s a starting-point table for a 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layers, drawn from Qidi’s own profile defaults plus what people have documented on stock Q1 Pro / X-Plus 3 / X-Max 3 installs. The toolhead is shared (or near-shared) across all three, so the same numbers carry over.

A few honest notes on this table.

Treat the PA-CF and PC values as starting points, not gospel. I’ve run Polymaker PA-CF, Bambu PA-CF, and Qidi-branded PA-CF on the same X-Plus 3, and the optimal nozzle temperatures landed 10 to 15°C apart. Always run a temp tower per spool. The temp tower workflow is covered in detail in our temperature tower walkthrough.

If you’ve never tuned pressure advance, that’s the second most useful calibration for visible quality after temperature. Klipper accepts the resulting PA value via SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=0.045, but OrcaSlicer’s filament profile field will write the right G-code for you so you don’t need to console it in manually.

For ABS and ASA in particular, our ABS and ASA settings deep-dive covers chamber temps, bed adhesion, and warp prevention that Qidi’s profile defaults already get most of the way through but not all of the way.

For TPU on a Qidi: the direct-drive extruder helps, but you still want flexible filament slow. 30 to 40 mm/s outer wall, fan on, and short retracts. Our TPU settings guide walks through retraction tweaks specifically for direct drive.

If your filament list extends past the table above, the broader OrcaSlicer filament settings reference is the canonical starting point for everything from PLA-CF to glow-in-the-dark.

Drying engineering filaments

This is the single biggest reason a Qidi user gets bad PA-CF prints. Nylon and PA-CF absorb water in hours, not days. A spool that printed beautifully yesterday will look stringy and weak today if it sat out overnight in a humid garage. Same goes for PC and PET-CF.

You have two options. One: buy a dedicated filament dryer (Sunlu, Polymaker, Eibos, whatever). Two: use the Qidi chamber as a low-temp dryer. Set the chamber to 55°C, leave the lid open and door cracked for airflow, and let the spool sit for 4 to 6 hours. It’s not as good as a dedicated dryer but it works in a pinch and uses hardware you already paid for.

The 600 mm/s reality check

All three printers claim 600 mm/s. That’s the marketing number. Real travel speed lands fine at 500. Real outer-wall speed for visible quality lands between 150 and 250. Anything above 300 mm/s on outer walls and you’re chasing a press release rather than a usable part. Inner walls and infill are happy at 300 to 400. Don’t crank everything to the ceiling and then post on Reddit asking why your prints look like garbage.

Chamber heater in OrcaSlicer (the ugly part)

This is the Qidi quirk that bites new users hardest, and it’s worth its own section because the fix isn’t obvious.

OrcaSlicer expects the chamber heater to follow a specific naming convention in Klipper: a [heater_generic chamber] block, controllable via M141 (set chamber temp, no wait) and M191 (set chamber temp and wait). When you set “Chamber temperature” in Orca’s filament profile, Orca prepends an M191 Sxx to the start G-code so the chamber preheats before the print kicks off.

Qidi’s stock Klipper config historically named the chamber heater [heater_generic hot] instead of chamber. So when OrcaSlicer fires M191 S60, older Qidi firmware throws “Unknown command: M191” and the print refuses to start. This is logged as OrcaSlicer issue #3072, and it’s been a slow-burn pain point for X-Max 3 users in particular.

You’ve got three workarounds:

Workaround 1: update your Qidi firmware. Recent Qidi firmware ships M191 mapped properly. If your printer is on a 2024 or earlier firmware, an update may fix this without touching anything else. Check Qidi’s wiki for the current firmware version for your model and update through the touchscreen.

Workaround 2: add a Klipper macro. If you can’t or won’t update firmware, drop a macro into printer.cfg via Mainsail’s config editor:

[gcode_macro M191]
gcode:
  SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=chamber TARGET={params.S|default(0)}
  TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="heater_generic chamber" MINIMUM={params.S|default(0)}

Adjust the heater name to match what’s actually in your printer.cfg. If your chamber heater is called hot, swap that in. Restart Klipper. M191 now works.

Workaround 3 (my preference): set chamber temp to 0 in OrcaSlicer and add M141 to custom Start G-code instead. This is what Qidi Studio actually does under the hood, and it sidesteps the M191 problem entirely. In OrcaSlicer’s filament profile, set Chamber temperature to 0 so Orca doesn’t try to inject M191 itself. Then in the Machine Start G-code (Printer Settings), add a line like M141 S60 after the bed heat block. The M141 fires the chamber heater without blocking, the bed mesh runs, and the chamber comes up to temp during the bed mesh and purge line. This avoids the “chamber heats first and blocks bed mesh” bug from issue #3072.

Pick whichever fix makes sense for your firmware version. If you’re on current Qidi firmware, workaround 1 is enough and you can ignore the other two.

Calibration sequence on Qidi

Qidi ships their machines with Klipper Input Shaper preconfigured at the factory using the onboard ADXL345 accelerometer. That’s a real selling point compared to a vanilla Voron build, where you’d run shaper calibration yourself before the first print. On Qidi, you mostly leave the factory tuning alone unless something physically changes.

Here’s the calibration order I’d run on a brand new Qidi for a brand new spool:

If you only have time for one calibration step per spool, do the temp tower. Wrong temperature breaks everything else downstream. If you have time for two, add pressure advance.

To re-run input shaper if you do swap something physical, open the Mainsail console at http://<ip>:10088 and type:

SHAPER_CALIBRATE

The printer will run a sweep on each axis and pick the best smoothing algorithm. If you want the deeper background on what input shaper is actually doing, our input shaper guide covers it. Same for pressure advance and flow rate calibration. The full overview lives in our OrcaSlicer calibration guide.

Common pain points and fixes

I’ll round these up because the same issues show up in every Qidi support thread.

Can’t connect from OrcaSlicer. Eight times out of ten, you forgot the :10088. Two times out of ten, the printer isn’t on the same subnet. Use the printer’s touchscreen to confirm IP, then load http://<ip>:10088 in a browser before fighting OrcaSlicer.

Send-and-print returns 403 or sdcard_print_file error. Real bug, not your fault. Issues #8788, #13056, #13123. Workaround: send only, then start from Mainsail or Fluidd. Or use Qidi Studio for the send step.

Chamber heater doesn’t fire / “Unknown command M191”. Covered in the chamber section above. Update firmware, add a Klipper macro, or skip M191 and use M141 in custom Start G-code.

X-Max 3 WiFi keeps dropping. Logged as issue #2818. Older firmware bug. Update Qidi firmware to current. If it still drops, run an Ethernet cable. The X-Max 3 has the port; use it.

PA-CF prints look weak / stringy. Almost always wet filament. Dry the spool. Then verify nozzle temp with a tower. Then verify flow rate. Don’t blame the printer until you’ve done all three.

Bed mesh times out / fails. Auto bed leveling on these three machines is reliable per multiple reviews. If it times out, your nozzle is probably gunked with cooled filament from a previous failed print. Heat the nozzle, manually pick the gunk off, retry.

Tall PA-CF parts warp at the top. On X-Max 3 specifically (and documented on Plus 4), above ~265 mm Z the bed frame can block chamber heater airflow. The chamber temp at 300 mm Z is not the same as the chamber temp at 50 mm Z. Add a layer-change macro to drop chamber setpoint above critical Z, or split the part if you can.

For broader OrcaSlicer fixes that aren’t Qidi-specific, our troubleshooting master guide covers the universal stuff (slicing errors, profile corruption, plugin conflicts).

OrcaSlicer vs Qidi Studio

Qidi ships their own slicer called Qidi Studio (sometimes labeled Qidi Slicer). It’s an OrcaSlicer fork with vendor presets pre-applied and Qidi’s specific Moonraker integration baked in. Both are valid. Pick one and you’re fine. Most experienced Qidi users mix freely: slice in upstream OrcaSlicer because it gets new features faster, send via Qidi Studio because the network step doesn’t 403 on you.

If you’re new to all of this and want zero setup pain, Qidi Studio is the path of least resistance. If you’re already deep in OrcaSlicer for a Bambu or Voron and don’t want to maintain a second slicer, upstream OrcaSlicer with the chamber-heater workaround above does everything. The 3MFs are interchangeable; you can slice in one and load the result in the other if you ever need to.

FAQ

Does OrcaSlicer support every current Qidi printer? Yes. The Qidi vendor folder in upstream OrcaSlicer includes profiles for Q1 Pro, Q2, Q2C, X-Plus 3, X-Plus 4, X-Max 3, X-Max 4, X-Smart 3, X-CF Pro, and the original X-Plus and X-Max. New machines usually land within a release or two of launch because Qidi sponsors the project.

Why is the Moonraker port 10088 and not 7125? Qidi runs a forked Moonraker that listens on 10088 by default. There’s no toggle to make it use 7125. Just use 10088 everywhere, including in the OrcaSlicer hostname field.

Can the Q1 Pro really print PA-CF? Yes, with caveats. The 60°C active chamber is enough for parts under about 50 mm tall in PA-CF. For taller parts, the 65°C chamber on the X-Plus 3 or X-Max 3 holds layer adhesion better. For all of it, dry the spool first.

Do I need to run input shaper calibration myself? No. Qidi runs it at the factory per unit. Re-run it only if you swap the toolhead, change the bed, or physically move the printer to a different surface.

Should I use Qidi-branded filament? The Qidi PA-CF and PAHT-CF are good and dialed in for the printer profile, but they’re not the only option. Polymaker, Bambu, and Fiberon all work. Just dry every spool of nylon-family filament before you load it.

Why does Send-and-print fail? OrcaSlicer’s send-and-print talks to Moonraker’s print-start API, and Qidi’s Moonraker fork sometimes returns 403 on that call. Send-only works. Start from Mainsail or Fluidd at :10088. It’s two clicks instead of one and it doesn’t fail.

Is the 600 mm/s claim real? Hardware-wise yes, the printer can move that fast on travels. In practice, you’ll print outer walls between 150 and 250 mm/s if you want visible quality. The marketing number is achievable, just not on the surfaces you actually see.

Q1 Pro versus Bambu P1S for ABS? The Q1 Pro has an active 60°C chamber heater. The P1S has a passive enclosure that gets to about 45 to 50°C from print heat. For ABS specifically the Q1 Pro is the more honest tool. The P1S has the better network workflow and AMS multi-material if that matters more to you.

Closing thoughts

The Qidi X-series is a premium engineering-filament printer dressed up in mid-range pricing. The Q1 Pro is the value pick for anyone who wants ABS, ASA, and the occasional PA-CF on a budget. The X-Plus 3 is the sweet spot if you’re actually printing engineering parts day to day and the build volume fits. The X-Max 3 is the right answer when your parts won’t fit on the Plus 3 and you’re willing to pay for the extra space.

OrcaSlicer support for all three is first-class because Qidi sponsors the project. The setup pain is real (port 10088, send-and-print 403, chamber heater G-code mismatch), but every quirk has a documented fix and most of the official Qidi profiles do the right thing once you’re past the network handshake. If you’re shopping for one of these machines or already own one and are switching from Qidi Studio, head back to the printer profiles hub and the Klipper setup guide next. They’ll save you another evening.

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